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Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Flying Into Catania
Flying into Catania
As the plane descended from it’s flying altitude, the clouds gave way to a series of intricately spaced mountain ranges. Reading only briefly on the 1944 Allied invasion of Sicily, it is hardly surprising the Germans allowed the Canadians, Americans, and British to land so easily, escaping to the higher defense positions that have always beautified the Sicilian landscape.
As my flight neared the runway, we swept over a commonwealth graveyard, unmistakable to those who have visited any of the war gravesites across Europe – the perfectly aligned white graves, with a large white cross.
I knew getting off the plane that, with the tight connection in Vienna, my bags would be hard pressed to make the voyage into the Aeropart Di Catania, so it was little surprise when they weren’t there. It’s a little disconcerting, not only because I have no clothes, but also because we are only in Sicily for a few days as we follow the D-day dodgers through the 38 day campaign on the island and then we travel to remote parts of Italy as we make our way up the boot of Italy. I hope it arrives quickly.
Nevertheless, my years of traveling and living abroad have taught me that it is best not to worry about that which you cannot control, so I decided to take a taxi into the middle of the town and go from there…
My cab driver, mercifully, spoke a little bit of broken English – which is far better than my ability to count to ten, ask how much, and thank someone in Italian. I pointed to the centre of town and asked for a cheap hotel, he could not have provided a better locale for me.
For 47 euro, I spent the evening at Centrale Europe Hotel. Located in the centre of Catania at Piazza Del Duomo my room overlooked the marvelous monument and the basilica built in the 17th Century, on the grounds of a former public bath dating back to 200 A.D.
For those I have talked to, you know, I am engaged in an epic battle with canker sores, so my first order of business was to find some relief. The first few Farmacia’s I tried, were conveniently and inexplicatly closed – an Italian trait that is endearing in its own right. So I found the nearest Internet cafĂ©, to get back in touch with Shan and the rest of the world to ensure everyone knew I was alright.
While I was unsure if I would find an open Farmacia, I knew I could console myself with a chocolate gelato - for those who have not experienced Italy’s version of Ice Cream, you are missing out on one of the worlds finest treats…
Ironically enough, after enjoying a chocolate gelato, I found an open Pharmacy, directly below my hotel window. In France, at least I can communicate competently…In Italy, I am reduced to gestures, which in the case of cankers involves going to the front, grabbing your lip and opening up your mouth for them to see the two gigantic sores – but it’s all part of the fun and I now have a sav that at least dulls the pain for a couple of minutes…
This is unmistakably Italy - where the new is built into and on top of the old, where the police are everywhere and do nothing (not that they really have to), where fountains and statues both pay tribute to the past and provide a gathering spot for the current generation, where the simplest of stories require th maximum of emotion and gestures, and where the traffic is crazy – complete with what feels like a million scooters, their drivers and passengers all avoiding the inconvenience of helmets. While there is something that seems almost closterphobic about European roads, I am looking forward to Shan and I’s foray into Ortona later this month, provided I get my luggage and the books that need to be dropped off there…
I have written this almost in it’s entirety as I sit at the base of the statue that marks Piazzio Del Duomo – at times I feel a slight mist, but it’s only the pigeons bathing in the fountain above. Italy’s public piazza's and remarkable fountains provide the perfect veue for almost anything...including preparing this blog...
I meet my fellow grad students in a couple of hours and I think it is about time to grab a bite to eat...
Until next time…
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